Very important, my loves. It will make your hair cutting lives much more fun and less frusterating, I promise. (And a lot more bloody if you are not careful. Take it SLOW with newly sharpened shears. Trust me.) If you are a casual DIY hair cutter, you may want to sharpen your shears once a year or so. You can either send your shears off to be sharpened at http://www.customsharpening.com/, or you can attempt to DIY by watching this video. Good luck!
Here is a good pair of starter shears
to buy for your DIY haircuts.
I realize that I sometimes throw terms around that y’all may not recognize. I’m starting a glossary so if you are unfamiliar with a term I use in my blog or my videos, you can look ‘em up yourself . Please email me if you can think of any that I have forgotten:).
Criss-cross pinning. Criss crossing bobby pins along a parting. This pinning technique is great when working with either super thick hair or very fine hair, because it creates a bit of a grid for other pins to grip to.
Crown- The back of the head
Cross-check-Going back through a section after you have already cut it, to check and make sure you got it all.
Design line- The lines that we cut hair along in a haircut to achieve a particular look. It is where we old the hair as we cut it. A movable design line moves around the head, like in our men’s and short womans’s haircuts. A stationary design line does not move, for example if we are doing a blunt bob, we are pulling all the hair to the same place to cut it. The ponytail cut is an excellent example of a stationary design line, as it brings all the hair on the head to one place to cut it.
Disconnected- Pieces of hair that are not included in the overall structure of the cut and are left out to hang longer than the rest. It is a fun way to created drama, softness, and texture, especially in shorter cuts.
Dropout- The hair that drops out at the nape of the neck after you have cut length off. A Shlob always has a dropout when you take the ponytail down. I usually point-cut straight across the nape of the neck to get rid of it.
Elevation- The angle that you hold the hair out from the head while cutting, determines level of graduation.
Fine hair and coarse hair- refers to the thickness of the actual individual strand of hair.
Focal point- where your eyes is drawn to within a specific form.
Graduation- the gradual change from short to long.
Hair rat- When you collect all the hair from your brush over time and rat it into a big ball and use it as a form or base for big hairstyles!
Impulse cut- When you cut your hair out of shear boredom, restlessness, desperation, drunken-ness.
Nape- Where the base of the neck meets the hairline
Natural fall- The way the hair falls about the head naturally.
Ombre- the french word for shaded. Going from dark to light. In hair, it’s dark at the roots to lighter at the ends.
Panels- coloring all the hair within a geomitrically shaped parted off area.
Pixie- A hairstyle that involves cutting all the hair to the same uniform length around the head, usually 1-2 inches of length, and texturized to give it a piecy look. Think Michelle Williams, or the Rosemary’s Baby haircut.
Point cut- Cutting little bites into the ends of the hair to soften the lines.
Radially- Working out from a certain point, around in a circular motion. For example, Using the ear as the center point, making partings that radiate out like the spokes of a wheel.
Safety blanket-The little detail of a haircut that makes a person feel secure. For many, it’s length around the face. For some, its hair covering the hairline of their neck. For some, its bangs NO shorter than a certain length. For some its hair OVER the ears ( does that mean cut over the ears, or hanging over the ears?!) For some its volume at the crown. When the safety blanket is cut wrong, a person can feel very unattractive, insecure, and mad at their hairdresser for not listening to their hair insecurities.
scissor cutting- A technique that removes length and bulk at the same time. Generally done on dry hair, best for thick heavy hair.
Sectioning- dividing the hair up into reasonable sections to work within to keep things organized so you don’t get lost in hair!
Subsection- the small section within a bigger section of hair that you are working within. Subsectioning is key in keeping track of the hair that you have already cut and the hair that still needs cutting. Very important!
Texturizing/Taking weight out- Removing bulk from the hair in a way that works with the natural texture of the hair. This can be done using different techniques, on any hair texture. It has a slimming and elongating effect on the overall ‘do. It’s great for making room in curly hair for curls to move more freely, and fabulous for softening shorter haircuts. It can be used to make a ‘do edgier.
Thin hair and thick hair-refers to the amount of strands on the head.
Topsy-tailWhen you make a ponytail, then reach through the middle of the base of it and pull the ends through.
Undercut- when the hair underneath is cut much shorter than the rest. Seen on skater dudes in the 90′s. Be still my heart!
Uniform layering- When hair from each layer is exactly the same length. It can be true for any length hair. If the angle of elevation that the hair is held when cutting is consistent throughout the haircut, it will be uniformly layered. A pixie cut is a good example of short uniform layered hair.
For all of us that have struggled with growing out short hair, I present to you the Shlob. A pixie becomes shaggy and the mullet-ish back must be shortened into a tiny little choppy bob. The choppy little bob becomes more of a grownup jaw length bob. The bob gets to that length where it is hanging right above the shoulders in a haircut that can be best described as “the liberty bell.”
You know what i’m talkin about. It’s heavy and frumpy and dumpy and awkward. When your hair gets to this place, you know it is time to call on on the power of the Shlob. This hybrid cut that blends your bob in with a shag is perfect for continuing your grow out process, between that awkward hangy length and well past the shoulders. I often like to put a little bit of an angle to it to keep it modern. It can be combined with bangs and some appropriate texturizing for your hair type (step away from the thinning shears, y’all) to make a super cute and edgy little ‘do. Here she is with bucket bangs.
Now, i’m gonna let you in on a little secret. SHHHHHHHH! you listening? this cut can be done with barely more than making 2 strategically placed ponytails and cutting them off. One at the crown, one at the base of the neck.
Do you want to try it? You can now purchase a more in depth how-to video of this look in the HTHG video store right now!. Try it on yourself or a lucky someone else. Don’t forget to send HTHG a before and after picture!
Don’t forget to subscribe to HTHG to keep up on all inspired DIY hair content. HTHG’s Facebook will keep you up on hair trends, tips, and tutorials from all my favorite stylists and bloggers so be sure to Like! Thanks for visiting. XO
If you love the shlob haircut and want to see more, check out HTHG ‘Shlob stories’ category.
Have I mentioned that I LOVE curls?. Cutting curly hair is an art all on it’s own. 7 years or so ago I was trained in the Deva curl method, which is on dry hair and each curl is cut at a time. I have gone on to combine several techniques that I have learned over the years to perform my curly haircuts. I believe that each individual head of curls calls for it’s own unique blend of techniques to create the perfect custom cut, that is how I roll.
When I am cutting curls, I feel like a master sculptor, a surgeon, and an architect and a counselor all at the same time. It takes such an eye for form, shape and dimension. The gratification that comes from customizing someones haircut to totally feature and enhance their natural and completely unique texture? It’s the next level of haircutting. I LOVE IT!. One of these days I will put together a little curly tutorial for all of you that are interested in learning some tips and techniques for curl care and cutting. Until then, trust the crew at www.naturallycurly.com.
Do you have wavy or curly hair? have you checked out www.naturallycurly.com yet? It is a wonderful resource for everything having to do with curly hair, tips for care, links to blogs, products, tried and true hair stories, and a salon finder that will point you to the nearest salon that features a curl cutter like myself. You can read review of stylists, and link to their salons. It’s a life changer for those curly peeps out there that are at a loss for what to do. Also check out my Deva Curl post!.