My Favorite Oils and Remedies for Curly Hair

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Hello my dears! How are you all, and how is your hair today? is it accurately helping you express your mood, while acting as barometer for atmospheric pressure changes? My curly hair is very big and fuzzy today, ain’t no taming it. There must be rain coming.

Today I want to shine a little extra love on my curly haired babes. Because let’s celebrate the fact that your hair expresses itself in a bigger way than non-curly hair. It’s not that curly is better, it is that curly is more dynamic. There are more factors which determine it to be exactly what it is, which is completely unlike any other head of hair.

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It is true that no two heads of hair are the same, on the entire planet. This fact just amuses me to no end. I just absolutely love that each person possess their own head of hair that is  not identical to any other head of hair. With this fact in mind though, It means we need to be thoughtful and curious and experimental when it comes to figuring out the best way to care for our own unique hair.

Today, I am sharing what I have found while thoughtfully experimenting with natural oils and remedies and methods of care in the hundreds of different heads of curly hair that I have worked on in the course of my career.


Brushing your Curly Hair

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To begin with, I have to state a fact. I have rarely come across any curly haired person who is a friend of the hairbrush. This is partly why I continue on my brush crusade……..I feel like so many of us have taken to heart the advice of someone who didn’t appreciate they dynamic beauty of curls. Sometimes, you have to let the beast roar. ( The roaring beast is your insanely big brushed out curls) Your hair and scalp will thank you forever, and many of the unsavory hair and scalp issues that have plagued you will disappear.

Flaky, itchy scalp? Needs more stimulation and circulation to it. Remedy? brush your hair.

Oily, flat roots and dry ends? Keep that oil moving through. Brush your hair.

Slow growing hair? Increase blood flow and cell division. Brush your hair for faster, healthier growth.

Frizzy hair? Brush your hair and help train some of the frizz down.

Heavy hair? For goddess sakes brush the fallen hairs out of your head once in a while to lighten your physical and spiritual load, not to mention helping your curls spring back to life.

Let’s be real. Most of us have ducked away from every hair brush and head massage that has come our way for fear of messing up our curls.

My advice, no matter your curl type, is to embrace the beast, love the frizz, and open up your scalp and hair to the mechanical and medicinal magic of a good hair brushing.

IMG_2006Here is the trick: Brush your dry hair, before you shower. That’s right, spend 10 minutes letting the beast roar. Brush it like you are making up for the last lifetime of not brushing it. From all angles. Feel the feelings in your scalp. Flip your head upside down and keep brushing it. Now, hop in the shower. Wet your hair thoroughly and go about your routine with washing or not washing. Even better, apply your favorite oil to it as a treatment once your hair has been brushed, rinsed, and is towel dried, then sleep on it. Wash out the next morning.

Do it again next week. Need a brush? This one is burly and designed for all curl types.

 


Oiling your Curly Hair

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Because of the way curly hair is made and the way that it grows, it is more susceptible to environmental strain and damage. Think of it like your tenderhearted friend who just keeps falling in love with the wrong dude, over and over again because she just loves to love so much. She may need your help finding ways to protect her heart better.

Your curly hair needs your help protecting itself so that it can be strong and do the right thing and make good choices. The best protection it has is the oil that your scalp makes so generously for it to bath in. (another reason to brush your hair, to help it spread it’s natural born protective armor.)4313E6A5-495B-434B-99D1-8680146C6E75

For those of us with longer hair, we especially need this armor of oil in our ends, where the hair is older and more damaged and farther from our oil-producing scalp. Sometimes, even our own natural oils aren’t enough to quench the thirst of our hair. And we can tell if that is the case, because it starts to feel like straw and our ends get brittle and break. That is how we know that it is time to find the right oil to nourish our hair in just the right way.

Before we launch in to oils, I need to say a quick word about the nastiness of silicone on curly hair.


Silicone, the anti-moisture.

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It is oh so easy to fall into the silicone trap, especially if you are curly. The instant smoothing, softening action of refined liquid plastic can be so tempting, so very enticing. We all crave that frizz-ease silkiness that we felt the first time we ran it through our strands and exclaimed ‘what is this magic???’

I know. It can be hard to say no. But just say no. It is the devil for your hair. It fills in the cracks of your uneven hair cuticle (all us curls have uneven hair cuticles), making each strand feel very smooth. Then it dries  in their and creates a coating that sticks. Over time it builds up into gunk that is very hard to remove. At this point, you have very effectively sealed OUT all moisture, making your hair dull and brittle and sad:( My heart feels sad just thinking about the trickery that led us to think we needed this stuff in the first place. But that is another topic for another day.

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A quick little note too, if you are a MORROCAN OIL addict I have to say this: I get it. It smells amazing and it makes your hair feel great. My experience in the salon with the Moroccan Oil line is that it is a phenomenon of biggest advertising hoax of consumer trickery I have ever witnessed. No it isn’t Argan Oil. It is a base of artificial fragrance, silicone and other petroleum-based synthetic goo’s and a *tiny* bit of Argan Oil to make it sound good and drive the price tag way up our unsuspecting asses. Rant? yes. Truth? Yes. Don’t buy it.

But trust me, curly babes. There are so many better options to experiment with than a Silicone laden smoothing serum that cost more than your water bill.


How to use Oils in Your Curly Hair

There are many ways to use oils in your hair. Here are a few, I recommend you try them all out and see what works for you.

You can apply oil to your dry hair, as needed, to add moisture, shine, protection and softness. Start with a few drops of oil, in the palm of your hand. Rub your hands together and smooth them over the surface of your hair. Do the same thing but this time, flip you head and hang your hair forwards, and scrunch the oil gently into your ends. Do this any time your hair feels really dry and crunchy, or any time you plan to be in harsh elements such as wind, sun, salt water etc.7U6A5237

You can do this same thing, on wet hair. Your hair will drink the oil in a bit deeper, and dry with the benefit of the oil in it which will help the curl pattern stay in tact. Some folks swear by applying their oil to absolutely dripping wet hair, because it disperses throughout the hair more easily and keeps the curls very well defined. If you like thicker oils lake castor oil, vitamin E oil or Lanolin, wet hair application is definitely the way to go.

In India, women oil their hair before they wash it. I love this method, as it really seems to have a deeper and more repairative effect on the hair. For this method, you will use more oil than just a few drops. Think about a teaspoon to a tablespoon, depending on your hair length and density. Wet and towel dry your hair. Apply the oil to your ends first, gently massaging it up your strands towards your scalp. Give yourself a scalp massage. Cover head with a towel of a hat and sleep on it. Wash out in the morning ( I wash twice with African Black Soap to remove excess oil.) I personally do this twice a month with my favorite hair oil which is Jojoba.

If you are using a very fine oil like fractionated coconut oil, you can put it in a spray bottle and spritz it in when you need it.

Play around. The point is, feed your hair oil when it is dry and needs quenching.

How to know if an oil is right for your hair? It is as simple as this: You like the results of using it. So try them all and see what works best for YOU.


My Favorite Natural Oils and Remedies for Different Curly Hairtypes

7U6A5951I know, I know, I just went through this whole thing about how no two hair types are the same and should each be treated uniquely. I stand by that. But for the sake of simplifying and streamlining your process of creating the best hair care routine for your unique hair type, these suggestions are for you to take and run with in your own experimental way. I am sharing what I have learned and my biggest hope is that it helps you understand and love your hair better.

Here are my favorite remedies and oils for different curl types. Keep in mind that the key here is to experiment and find what works best for you. All of these oils and remedies can be  bought in small amounts, very affordably. Also, don’t be afraid to cocktail ingredients. All of these remedies can be used interchangeably in your hair! Have fun and summon your inner alchemist.

For Thick Hair:

If you have fine textured curls I recommend:

    • Vitamin E oil– It is nice and thick and a little bit sticky, great for curls that need a little weight and taming to keep them in tact. Adds shine too.
    •  Olive oil Thick as well, with a bit of weight too it but without the stick. A favorite of Mediterranean blooded folks with thick curls. Nice shine to it.
  • Coconut OilGreat all purpose hair oil, not much stick at all and little shine but lot’s of protective qualities.
  • Castor oil The thickest and stickiest of them all. Tame flyaway and add lots of shine and luster.

 

If you have coarse textured curls I recommend:

  • Avocado oil Very moisturizing, nice shine, super protection and super softening.
  • Shea butter a great hair tamer and moisture barrier protector for coarse and dry hair. I love to melt it down with my jojoba oil. A tiny bit of stick to it, nice matte finish.
  • Beeswax Even more taming, protection, and stickiness than Shea Butter. Best if melted down in oil or with Shea Butter, makes a great pomade for coarse curls.
  • LanolinThick, protective, and strengthening for brittle coarse hair.
  • Emu oil Fine, viscous, incredibly softening and strengthening for coarse dry hair. Deeply penetrating and reparative.

For Medium Hair:

If you have fine textured curls I recommend:

  • Sweet Almond oil Not to heavy, not too light. Great shine, easily absorbed moisture.
  • Argan oil Reparative, softening and super protective for dry and color treated hair.

If you have coarse textured curls I recommend:

  • Fractionated Coconut oil Lot’s of shine, lots of protection and softness. A little goes a LONG way. Great for use before heat styling or a lot of sun exposure.
  • Argan oil- Again, very softening and reparative.
  • Emu oil- Strengthening and softening, not too heavy.

For Thin Hair:

If you have fine textured curls I recommend:

  • Jojoba oil Lightweight, lovely. Easy for your hair to absorb. Nice shine, super soft.
  • Rosewater Light as air, but incredibly softening and shine enhancing. Helps tame curls and add lustrous bounce. Spray in as needed!
  • Rosehip oil Light, easily absorbed and very hydrating for fine and fragile curls.
  • Sea salt Mix with warm water and spray in for added texture and volume in oily hair that falls flat. Spray in at the roots….Or, mix with warm water in a cup and pour over the hair as a finishing rinse. Do not rinse out. Best ever? Jump in the ocean every chance you get.
  • Aloe Vera Great for parched fine curls with straw-like ends. Lightweight and hydrating, softening. Scrunch into your ends, or spray in liquid with a mister.

If you have coarse textured curls I recommend:

  • Seseme oil Lightweight but with a tiny bit of stick for taming and softening coarser curls. Nice shine.
  • Neem oil Reparative and easily absorbed moisture for hair and scalp.
  • Grapeseed oil Lightweight and very softening.
  • Emu oil- Great for brittle thin hair because it helps boost elasticity, making coarse thin curls more bouncy and buoyant.

For Frizz-

  • Coconut milk Use it like conditioner for softening and taming your hair, smoothing down frizz and moisturizing.
  • Apple Cider Vinegar Mix with water and use as a conditioning hair rinse. ( 1 tablespoon ACV to 8 oz water is a good starting mixture) Adds lots of shine, detangles and smooths down the surface of your hair strands, helping with frizz and adding reflection.
  • Honey Incredibly softening and hydrating, melt it down in hot water (1 teaspoon honey to 8 oz water) and spray in your hair on dry days to help attract moisture from the air into your hair. Turn fuzz back into bouncy curls, adds lots of shine.
  • Hibiscus flowers Very softening, smoothing and shine enhancing. Steep a tea with dried hibiscus and use it as a conditioning rinse. Even better, put a handful of dried hibiscus in a jar of Apple Cider Vinegar and set it in the sun for a week. Use this as a conditioning rinse. For added moisture, melt a tablespoon of honey in it and soak your hair with it, letting it sit for 10 minutes before rinsing it out. 

Strengthening Fragile Hair-

  • Horsetail GrassSteep the dried grass in hot water, drink the tea daily. Rinse your hair and scalp once a week with this biotin and silica-rich brew. Helps build protein strength.
  • Emu oil- So deeply penetrating that it can really help build inner hair strength in fragile hair.
  •  Argan oil- Also deeply penetrating and easily absorbed, but the hydrating and protective abilities really help prevent further damage in already very fragile hair hair.

Washing your Curly Hair- As far as washing hair, I know many curly haired people who love the ShamPHree routine. I know many who just brush and rinse with warm water once a week ( after years of me pleading with them to try it. ) Several of my fine-haired clients swear by washing with African Black Soap by Alaffia, followed by a Apple Cider Vinegar rinse. 

Screen Shot 2016-07-23 at 8.13.31 PMMany of my medium to thick, coarse curly clients have fallen madly in love with New Wash from Hairstory Studio. ( Try it and let me know what you think. Then you order it, be sure to tell them that How-to Hair Girl referred you, I’d sure appreciate it because I get a small percentage of each sale when I help someone discover the line, which truly has  revolutionized less is more haircare.

 

 

Weaning your Curls off of Shampoo/ Hair Products: I get asked this question a lot….How do I wean my curly hair off of hair products? Getting off the hair junk can be a real jump for curly haired people who have become dependent on one product or another. My short answer is this: Start to trust your natural oils to take care of your hair for you. This basically means that less is more when it comes to hair…..Take less away, add less back in. Homeostasis is the curly hair word of the day. If you shampoo a few times a week, cut down to one less time a week for a while. Instead of washing it, give it a thorough brushing when it is dry to redistribute oils from the scalp and move them towards your ends. Rinse your hair with warm water.

Slowly work your way down to no-shampoo, letting your hair adjust to the new routine and letting your scalp re-calibrate oil production. Over time, this switch from chemical cleansing to mechanical cleansing will condition your hair and create a much more manageable environment for your curls to behave and thrive naturally.

The same is true for getting off conventional hair products, curl creams, butters, etc. Find the oil that works for your hair, and start brushing it regularly. You heard that right, curly babe.


My Personal Curl Routine

Me and my medium density, coarse but fine (is that even possible?) sometimes-curly-sometimes-not but always at-the-mercy-of-the-weather-hair loves a combination of all of the above oils, remedies, and routines at different times depending on the weather, the seasons, my mood, and the way I decide to wear my hair. So you can imagine the look of my haircare cupboard. #hairhoarders no no don’t get rid of that! My hair needs that!

Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 6.55.27 AMMy most often-used oils are Jojoba and Castor, Jojoba ( I love La Tierra Sagrada Jojoba Oil ) for moisture and softness and conditioning, and Castor to tame it. I brush my hair all the damn time, sometimes wearing my hair in big wild brushed out curls, but sometimes just to work the oils through before I rinse it. I love New Wash, especially in the Summer and Winter months when my hair is dry. I also love the Hairstory Hair Balm. I ALWAYS do an Apple Cider Vinegar rinse, and when my hair is limp, I swear by Salt Spray by La Tierra Sagrada. Nothing is better than my hair after a jump in a river.

I hope this post helps you find your curly hair sweet spot.

Here are my favorite herbs for hair, to take you natural hair remedies to the next level.

Here is my favorite DIY tricks for Naturally Curly Hair.

And here are my favorite DIY Recipes to Rock your Haircare at Home.

What are your favorite tips and tricks for caring for your curls? Would love to hear your feedback in the comment section.

xo, HTHG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foil Setting Texture Trick!

IMG_0702Hey babes. I have a challenge for you. Grab a friend, some aluminum foil and a flat iron and play around with wadding up foil in different ways, wrapping hair around it, clamping it with a flatiron, allowing it to cool, and taking the foil out. It is super fun!

IMG_0704IMG_0718IMG_0693IMG_0696For this experiment, I made long, thin foil rods with my hands and basically doing a rag curl set with foil rods and heat. The results were just wonderful.

Have fun, and post your photos and tag me!

xo, HTHG

When Curly Friends do Each Others Wedding Hair

IMG_7021Hi dears! Today I am sharing a little fun and heartwarming project that I did last month in Arkansas with some dear lady friends at the river. Here is the story-

Christina was getting married in the Ozarks, to an Ozark man who she loves dearly and I was leaving town 3 days before the wedding (Cry!) so I wouldn’t be able to make it to do her hair and celebrate in the union of their sweet family.

So, we decided it would be a good move to teach her best friend Audrey how to do her hair for her. We met at the West Fork of the White River, near a lone goose who was clearly offended that we were around.

We set up our picnic blanket, and stripped down to our swim suits and set up shop. The goose hopped into the river to find a new place to hang.

Both Christina and Audrey are naturally curly women, with wild golden curls. We chatted a bit about what kind of hairstyle Christina wanted, and I gave her my bride hair shpeal which goes like this

For your wedding the most important thing is that you feel like yourself but at your very best and most elegant. So, let’s take your ‘usual’ hairstyle (a low loose bun on one side.) and fancy it up a bit. Can’t go wrong that way.

She was down with that. We decided which side to put her hairstyle on, knowing that we wanted it low and slightly off center. I

Now, for curly haired babes who are getting married, I generally like to leave the hair in it’s most natural texture without disturbing the curl pattern as I style it. Christina had a deep side part, and her heavy side falls naturally into a really lovely sort of fingerwave pattern when left to it’s own devises, so I planned the hairstyle to work around that, preserving that gorgeous natural feature of her hair that she loves.

I began by sectioning (gently) her sides, from the top of her head to behind both ears, pushing all the side hair forward of her shoulders and out of the way so I could build from the center of the back.

With all the hair in the back, I began a braid down the back, pulling the braid slightly to the side as I braided.

Halfway through the braid, I started at the top on one side of the braid, pulling the edges out to widen that side and create petal-like shapes on one side of the braid.  These ‘petals’ will run along the outer edge of the bun, creating a floral design.

I didn’t braid too tight, but also not too loose. I continued braiding to the end, then pulled the rest of the petals out all the way to the ends of the braid. I secured the end.

IMG_6915Then, holding the braid flat against her head, I wound the braid into a bun, pinning as I went, securing the braid to the head discreetely, with the ends tucked out of the way.

Next step, I created another braid on the light side of her part, pulling the petals out on the outer edge of the braid as I worked my way to the ends.IMG_6919

I secured the ends, and then wound that braid below and then up and around the bun, pinning it into place as I went. This made the bun bigger and more intricate.IMG_6925

Then, I created a third braid on the other (heavy) side of her hair in the same way, pulling the petals out of the outter edge as I braided. I secured the ends, then wound that braid into another small bun (flower) pinning it discreetly nestled up against the first bun. (Braided Rosebud:)IMG_6927IMG_6929

Then, I did my favorite little trick that adds volume to the back of the head…….Holding the buns tightly to her head with one hand, I used a bobby pin in the other hand to lift up the hair at her crown, threading it in underneath the hair at her crown and then lifting it towards me to create a bit of space, but without pulling too hard. I did this a few times around the back of her head to add a bit of oomf.IMG_6930

Then, she got flowered. Peony flowers and leaves and Queen Anne’s lace.

The whole while, Audry watched and asked questions to clarify……..Making sure she understood the directions so that she would be ready when the big day came.IMG_6960IMG_6958

Then, Audrey got a haircut in the wind (my favorite sort of challenge). All the while, the goose watched us from the river.

Hair Friends for Life.

The End.

xo, HTHG

UPDATE!!!!!

IMG_7815Here is a photo from Audrey of the finished hairstyle the day of the wedding, complete with succulents. SO beautiful. Nice job ladies.

 

 

Straight Girls Guide to Going Curly.

DSC03942Have you spent your whole life faking straight hair, and keeping your wild waves and curls a dirty little secret?

This post, the Straight Girls Guide to Going Curly, is for all of you ladies who are ready to take the plunge into curly hair-ed life…..It is everything you need to know to help you transition and learn to love and care for your curly hair.

If you are standing on the edge of curls, we commend you for having the bravery to jump off the flat-iron fight. We stand in solidarity! Rock those curls, girls.

Thanks to Refinery29 for running this article, y’all are the best. Hop on over and check it out:)

xo, HTHG

Talking Hair with Hairromance

IMG_3518Hey babes. Today, I am excited to be able to share with you an interview with a woman who has really played a hand in inspiring my journey as a Hair blogger. Meet the effervescent and lovely Christina Butcher, blogger at Hairromance, published author of Braids, Buns, and Twists, Queen of Pinterest, and naturally curly Aussie fox.

IMG_3521Christina was gracious enough to share with us a bit about her journey to loving her hair, as well as her favorite hair tips, tricks and products. I am so pleased to be featuring her on HTHG, because she is a badass hair loving lady with some serious skills in teaching others to love their own hair. And that is what HTHG is all about! So Christina, thank you for doing all you do for us and our hair sense:)

Hair Romance - messy curls 2

 You talk about the one haircut that changed your life. Tell us more about what the cut looked like, how it was different than other cuts, and why it changed your hair game.

 

I didn’t grow up with curly hair. It just appeared during puberty and I really didn’t know how to deal with it. My mum had short hair and wasn’t much help with hair. After cutting all my hair off (a super short pixie!) I felt so free from my hair. It was as I decided to grow it back that I became best friends with a hairdresser who really understood curls. When my hair was a few inches long he told me my hair was curly and I was shocked. He gave me a simple box layered cut that was quite rounded in shape. It was life changing as I could easily style my hair and achieve great curl every day. It really encouraged me to love my hair and started my hair romance.

You know a thing or two about embracing natural curls. What have been your biggest and greatest hair discoveries as a naturally curly woman?

 

I used to be worried that my hair was dry but it’s natural for curly hair to have a dry texture. The huge bonus is that I don’t have to wash my hair as often and so I can save myself so much time. I sleep with my hair pineapple’d on top of my head and can make my curls last for days. When they get too messy, braids save the day.

I know your hair can get major big, and I know you love big hair. What are your favorite tricks for achieving hair as high as the heavens?


I love volume powder. It’s a game changer with hair styling for me. I love it to add some height to curly hair (which can lay a little flat naturally). I also use it to fatten up my braids. A little sprinkle of powder on the finished style lets me pull out the hair wider so it looks thicker.

For those who don’t like using a lot of product, I have a simple trick for when I’m air drying my curls. I part my hair in a deep side part on the opposite side to the way I wear my hair. Then when my hair is about 80% dry, I flip it back over to the right side and you have so much more volume on top. 

 What is your current hair routine/regimen?


I wash my hair every 3-4 days (sometimes a little longer!). I use a sulphate free shampoo and always do a hair treatment. I’ll comb my hair while I condition my hair and then gently squeeze out any moisture and let my curls air dry. I alternate between a mousse or curl cream depending on what I’m testing for the blog. If I’m in a rush I’ll use my diffuser to hurry the drying process along. I finish with a few drops of oil or a serum to tame the frizzies.

Fortnightly I also do an oil treatment (Darshana) on my hair.

 Who is your all-time hair idol?


Probably Gwen Stefani. Her hair is amazing and she never has any regrowth. It’s a platinum miracle.

 What haircut currently gives you major envy?


I would love super long mermaid hair but the maintenance would be such a pain. I also love a blunt bob with a fringe but it just won’t work with my hair. 

Do you have any advice for someone who is perpetually frustrated with their hair?

 

Getting to know your hair is the first step. You have to get to a place of acceptance as to what your hair really looks like. Understand that all magazine photos are photo-shopped and that most, if not all, celebrities are wearing hairpieces and have way more time than you to style their hair.

Then start practising styles that you can do in your hair. Build up an easy hair-drobe of hairstyles that you can wear any day. 

Stop comparing and start loving your hair. I promise that your hair will love you back.

 Do you have any hair tricks that have been passed down from your mother or grandmother?

 

Sleep on a silk pillowcase. It’s softer and smoother than cotton and you’ll wake up with less frizz in the morning.

What are your favorite up-and-coming companies in the hair biz?

 

One of my faves is Original and Mineral. They’re an Australian company with a focus on low chemical formulas but they don’t skimp on the look and feel of their products. They’re eco-conscious and their products really work. I especially love 7 Day Miracle and Frizzy Logic. I also use their ammonia free permanent colour on my hair.

 Do you have any exciting creative projects that you are working on for the blog this year that you would like to share?

 

I’m in the planning stages of a new book all about curly hair! It’s about time that curly girls had more examples of really curly hair and hairstyles they can do. I’m sick of seeing straight hair curled and then called curly.

Sing it, girl!

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(Photo from the Braids for short hair tutorial)

Where and how do you find inspiration for all the lovely hairstyles that you invent?

 

I’m often inspired by necessity – like part of my hair looks ok but the side is a mess so I’ll create a new side braided style. I also look to fashion weeks for new trends that I can adapt for real girls. Pretty much I just love playing with hair!

 

Christina, a big thank you from all of us for your HTHG feature!!!!

 

Here are 2 of my favorite Hairromance tutorials….

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And the Side braided hairstyle (I LOVE her colors here:)

 A little side note…….Want to start a beauty blog? Christina is featuring Beauty Blog School on Hairromance, so get in now while you can. She is a wonderful teacher.

Side braided hairstyle (I LOVE these colors:).

Check out Christina’s braiding e-book

Her DIY bride hair and makeup book

 

And my favorite, her beautifully printed hairstyle book, Braids, Buns and Twists.

xoxo, Hairromance and How-to Hair Girl

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